15/08/2019 / Last updated : 02/02/2023 d.d Temple / Shrine

Cape Toi, Udo Shrine and Aoshima　都井岬、鵜戸神社、青島

December 2017, Cape Toi We set off for Toi-misaki(Cape Toi), which has good views, a lighthouse and wild horses(Misaki-uma). We visited this place on a motorcycle trip 30 plus years ago and had fond memories of it. Especially the minshuku, or B&B. This place, despite our initial reservations, (it looked like a very tacky café) provided superb sea views, opera on the radio and excellent food. We were surprised to find you now have to pay 400 yen to enter the cape and a further 200 yen to view the lighthouse. The cape does offer a spacious area of short, horse nibbled grass and wonderful seascapes on all sides. Then […]

11/08/2019 / Last updated : 02/02/2023 d.d Temple / Shrine

Ariake Sea 　有明海

December 2017, Fukuoka to Ariake -Sweeping curves to a blow-dried rectum Just after 11am we leave Fukuoka and head for Susenj to cross the mountains (pref.R.56) via the Mitsuse Tunnel. After crossing R. 202, the road up towards the tunnel is wide with smooth curves sweeping upwards. I recall coming down this road, 30 years ago, when it was a dirt track that became increasingly impassable as the gully erosion in the centre became wider and wider. We were too far down to reverse and there was no possibility of turning round; we had to press on. I unloaded the family and eased the 4WD Honda Street down the crumbling […]

03/08/2019 / Last updated : 01/02/2023 d.d Temple / Shrine

Daisen-ji temple　大山寺

October 2017, Daisen-ji Temple As we drove out of Shinwa no sato Shiro Usagi michi no eki this morning, I noted that the sea was on the other side of the road but it was not the most picturesque spot. The michi no eki was busy early, but quiet enough during the night. Daisen, or more specifically Daisen-ji Temple, is our first objective and we steadily drive towards and up the mountain. We are surprised, on arrival, that such a famous spot is so run down. The temple is rather sad and stands in not perfectly raked gravel but in what looks like the car park of a roadside ramen […]

19/05/2019 / Last updated : 12/02/2023 d.d Temple / Shrine

Izumo-taisha, stone rabbits　出雲大社

Day 93, December 2016, A night marked by heavy rain and thunder but the morning brings pale sunshine, even if the thunder is still rumbling around and the western sky fantastically dark. I make a trip to the toilet, thinking I have time before any serious rain arrives. As I emerge, the hail is sheeting down. This doesn’t last long and, after a short chat to the lady cleaner, I make it back to the car. We drive across the road to a Lawson car park for breakfast as, uniquely, this michi no eki has no vending machine for coffee. Izumo-taisha　　出雲大社 Our next stop is Izumo-taisha. Its big hall, immediately, […]

24/04/2019 / Last updated : 11/02/2023 d.d Temple / Shrine

Mt.Yoshino – Kinpusenji and a walk up to Mikunari Shrine 　吉野山

Day 82, November 2016, Yoshinoyama Kinpusenji Temple　　吉野山金峯山寺 Another chilly, damp morning and the rain, despite a contrary forecast, starts before we set off for Mt.Yoshino. We decide to walk in rain suits, if necessary, but when we arrive, the rain has stopped though it is still decidedly chilly. We park in a huge, empty car park and set off uphill for Kinpusenji Zaodo. Kinpusenji Zaoudo is the second largest wooden building after Todaiji temple. It is just as impressive as I remember it from our first motorcycle journey, in cherry blossom season, well over 30 years ago. D. is struck by the huge, wooden pillars that are labeled as wood […]

29/03/2019 / Last updated : 11/02/2023 d.d Temple / Shrine

Tamaki Shrine and Tanize Suspension Bridge　玉置神社

Day 80, November 2016, Another damp, chilly morning, the hills are draped in mist but the higher peaks are in sunshine. Unfortunately, we are deep in shade in a river valley. The river itself is mostly lost in the sea of gravel that forms its bed. We depart, heading for some elusive shrine up the hillside. Tamaki Jinja (Shrine) When we arrive at the spot where the footpath to the shrine begins, the road is very narrow and there is absolutely nowhere to park so, we give up. As we descend, we pass a local bus going up and realize that the only way to access the shrine is by […]

29/03/2019 / Last updated : 11/02/2023 d.d Hiking / Walking

Kumano Kodo Nakahechi – Kumano Hongu Taisha　熊野古道中辺路

Day 79, November 2016, A quiet night but a chilly morning. The sun is up but, shining on the front of the building we are behind. We set off in search of a coin laundry and find one conveniently located next to a supermarket, where we buy food. Heading deep into the mountains finding supplies is always a problem. The choice is limited but, I am not feeling my best, so my interest in food is scarce. Kumano Kodo Nakahechi After picking up the washing we head to Kumano Kodo michi no eki Nakahechi where we have lunch. This is a small road station but it has a restaurant and […]

17/03/2019 / Last updated : 11/02/2023 d.d Hiking / Walking

Kumano Kodo Trail-Nakahechi, Daimonzaka 　熊野古道中辺路大門坂

Day 77, November 2016, After another warm night and a cloudy morning, with only a hint of sunshine, we make directly to another kodo (Nakahechi), Daimonzaka. This trail heads up to Kumano Nachi Taisha and Seigantoji temple. The latter being the Buddhist temple attached to the Shinto shrine. Temples and shrines used to be more aligned, especially the Shugendo sect of mountain ascetics which bridged the two beliefs. This alignment was suppressed after the Meiji Restoration though some twin arrangements survive. Daimonzaka (Kumano Kodo Nakahechi) After a short walk along the road from the car park, we find the entrance to the kodo. This is marked by a couple of […]