Tsubosakadera, Great Buddha in cherry blosssoms　壺阪寺

April 8^th. 2024

A quiet night,  michi no eki Yoshinoji Kurotaki is a good place to stay. There is an adequate if strange onsen nearby and the facilities are splendid for such a small rural michi no eki. Though I don’t recall any fresh flowers.

Tsubosakadera

Our first stop of the day is Tsubozakadera. We had planned to visit this temple on the off chance this past weekend but the sight of the jammed traffic trying to enter the approach road gave us an instant change of heart. The following day traffic was also insane so we thought there must be something worth seeing.

Today, Monday, access is easy thought there is still a significant number of people visiting. We discover the temple has strong links to India.
In the 1960’s the temple created a leprosy hospital and later a school on the sub-continent. In response, Indian stone masons created what is now the largest stone buddha in Japan, a large Kannon-sama, a reclining Buddha, and a stone relief depicting the life of the Buddha. The main attraction however is, of course, the cherry blossom.

The temple site is large and there are various spots from which to view the large Buddha surrounded by the essential pink petals.
In the main hall there is a surprising display of Hinaningyo, the dolls for the girl’s festival on the 3^rd. Of March. These dolls are arranged to form a mandala apparently. Beyond the massed array of dolls is an image of Buddha which for a small fee is good for the eyes.

I am being my cynical self, but this is an interesting and unusual temple, but whatever you do never attempt to visit on a weekend in cherry blossom season.

Yakushiji temple　薬師寺

In the afternoon we visit Yakushiji. This is a very old temple, stemming from the origins of Buddhism in Japan. It is one of those Nara temples that mirror its Chinese origins in vast open spaces, large simple structures, and lots of gravel.

It is unusual in having two pagodas standing on either side of the main building. D. visited this temple on a school trip some decades ago and was surprised to see two pagodas. This is because the west pagoda did not then exist. It is a recent replica.
Like so many temple buildings, the original did not survive centuries of warfare, earthquakes and one must suppose, on occasions, careless monks. But the east pagoda is the original and the oldest remaining building of Heijokyo the old name of what became Nara.

Toshodaiji temple　唐招提寺

From here we walk to nearby Toshodaiji temple. (you can re-enter Yakushiji with your ticket to get back to the car park)

This temple is similar to Yakushiji in that it is a large open space heavy on the gravel, but it is more interesting as it houses some splendid images and, further in, a quiet area of moss and old walls.

We happen to visit on Hanamatsuri （Buddha`s birthday), To honour this the temple has displayed a miniature pagoda with small Buddha statue so D. Ritually pours sweet tea over it. The temple also gives this day’s visitors a small packet of sweet tea.

Both temples were deeply involved in the introduction of Buddhism to Japan and are rich in history. This however is not necessarily apparent to the casual visitor.

Heading out of Nara, we take the Meihan Kokudo Route E25 to michi no eki Ayama. On first acquaintance I am not impressed. Though the structure has a modern aspect, the facilities are basic and limited. The place does boast an impressive display of Jidohanbaiki (vending machines).
It is also pouring with rain.