Tomonoura, setting for Ponyo 鞆の浦
April 16th. 2024
Our Fukuyama izakaya, both of them, sadly proved to be a disappointment. The hotel, Vessel Inn, was unexpectedly excellent from a cost/performance standpoint. We had a view of the Illuminated Fukuyama castle from our window. The buffet breakfast was from D’s Japanese perspective very good and from the continental side OK.
Fukuyama Castle
Tomonoura
We set off for Tomonoura. This very old coastal town has a long history but came to unexpected prominence more recently as Miyazaki Hayao stayed here for a period while developing his Studio Ghibli movie Ponyo. This has placed it on the more general tourist itinerary, but Japanese history buffs are more interested in its place as an important staging post for Edo era shipping.
Its position as a mid-point on the Setonaikai means that from here tides flow in opposite directions. Consequently, ships would dock here to await a favourable tide to continue their voyage.
Funabansho (ship lookout station) at Tomonoura
It also has a place in Meiji Restoration drama as 7 Meiji supporters from the bakufu ran away to shelter here. Also, Sakamoto Ryoma was shipwrecked here.
A replica of his ship ‘Iroha-maru’ serves as a ferry to a just offshore island ‘Sensui-jima’.
Heisei Iroha-maru at Tomonoura
In the town itself, there are many Edo era streets and alleyways. The layout of the place has not substantially changed for centuries so Edo era maps can still be used this town. Nevertheless, Google maps are more popular.
Tomonoura
It is also famous for a kind of health tonic sake ‘Homeishu’.
Sake brewery in Tomonoura
Abuto Kannon Bandaiji 阿伏兎観音盤台寺
Leaving Tomonoura, it is a short drive to Abuto Kannon Bandaiji. This is a very small temple with a small 16th century hall built on a rock promontory.
Bandaiji Temple
It is a place dedicated to safe childbirth and breastfeeding, so replica breasts abound.
Bandaiji Temple
＊Abuto Kannon Bandaiji ; 100 yen
As this trip is winding up, we return home tomorrow, we take the long drive from Fukuyama to Tsuwano. We aim to spend the last night at one of our favourite michi no eki Ganjoju. This has excellent facilities and a simple but very pleasant onsen and a splendid hilltop location.
＊Ganjoju onsen ; 520 yen
Follow me!
The author is a long term resident of Japan who has and continues to travel the country extensively. Avoiding highways where possible, the author has driven from Kagoshima in Kyushu to Wakanai in Hokkaido covering 20,000 plus kilometres and counting.
