Tanukiko & Hottarakashi onsen　　田貫湖、ほったらかし温泉

May 28th. 2025

Michi no eki Narusawa

Wake in michi no eki Narusawa after a wet night. The morning is bright and clear and Fujisan stark and majestic against a blue, blue sky. Beautiful, apart from the buildings, water tanks, cables and netting. Narusawa is ok for an overnight, but not I suspect at weekends. The toilets are reasonable though really, for such a large and popular spot, one has come to expect something a lot better.

Wandering around we discover a large grassy expanse with children’s play areas and clear Fuji views that are already beginning to cloud over.

Lake Tanuki　　田貫湖

We leave heading for Tanukiko. This lake promises a Fuji view point presumably with a mirror image in the placid water but, when we arrive, the lake surface is alive with ripples and Fujisan almost completely engulfed in cloud.

We walk the lake perimeter, not the full 3 kilometre circuit just the quieter end and turn back when we meet the hotels.

Michi no eki Asagiri Kogen

From Tanukiko, we stop by michi no eki Asagiri kogen. This is another view spot for the mountain but today, just cloud. We have stayed overnight here in the past but it smells strongly of sewage if parking anywhere near the toilets. So would not stay again.

It specializes in milk products and has a dog run.

Lake Shojiko　　精進湖

From Asagiri kogen on to Shojiko. This is a small lake of no special interest. There are many buoys and floats indicating some kind of competitive aquatic events – sailing canoes, speedboats? I don’t know.

Hottarakashi Onsen　　ほったらかし温泉

At something of a loss, we decide to take a look at Hottarakashi. This is a famous onsen at the top of a hill reached through a Fruit Park. This park appears to be an attraction in its own right. There is a large domed greenhouse which we thought to be a botanical garden but houses a children’s play area. There is also a Go Kart track.

The onsen, however, does not look inviting from the outside and we almost abandon the project but – what the hell? We are here. So decide to give it a go.

It is as it looks – pretty tacky. The washing area has the aesthetic of a cowshed, concrete floor, cheap industrial metal walls and roof. It is very large but few people seem to use it. They didn’t come to wash. There is a largeish, indoor, rectangular, concrete bath. Quite hot and largely unused. I used it to get warm as the outside bath on the upper level was verging on tepid. The place is saved, to a limited extent, by the more rocky bath on the lower level. This was warm enough but not really hot, so suitable for a long soak, enjoying the undeniably splendid views of the surrounding mountains and Kofu city far below. A passing shower providing pleasing ring patterns on the bath surface, cooling drops on the head and a rainbow over the city below.

Whether that is enough to justify the exorbitant 900 yen fee and 100 yen locker charge is debatable.

Michi no eki Hakushu, Shinshutsutajuku and Tateshina

Realizing our michi no eki for the night is still a long drive away, we reluctantly take the highway. After taking a look at michi no eki Hakushu we decide against it. I think it is a potential spot for a wet night as it is possible to park close to the facilities or on the other side close to a covered walkway. 

However, we move on to Shinshutsutajuku but here the parking is full, at least within striking distance of the facilities. Most of the cars will be patrons of the onsen but we can’t be bothered to wait so return to Tateshina. Here again we stayed a few nights earlier. This is a weekend spot, food trucks, zakka stalls (nicknacks) so quiet on a weekday night. 

The facilities are very good but prominent signs prohibit toothbrushing. They don’t like shachuhaku. A snobby place but midweek deserted.