Shiramizu and Harajiri waterfall　白水の滝、原尻の滝

March 27^th. 2024

Aso　阿蘇

Leaving Minami Aso michi no eki Kugino, we set off for Mt. Aso itself. In recent years, sadly, it has not been possible to approach the active crater and peer into the bubbling cauldron. At the topmost car park, still some distance from the crater, the buildings are deserted and derelict. There is still an amazing landscape all around but nothing to the spectacle we could wonder at some years ago. That said, the colour of the dead grasses, bushes in nascent bud, the seams of soil and ash black, orange and red are wonderful.

We did not visit Kusasenri this time, but there is good walking from there in various directions providing fabulous views.

Shiramizu waterfall

From Aso, we drive to Shiramizu no taki. This waterfall or rather waterfall complex used to be more popular but perhaps we are too early in the season. The only sign of life, as we pull into the car park, are a couple of cats. There is a restaurant here specializing in trout, but it has not yet opened for the season.

From the car park, it is a 600 metre walk to the main waterfall, mostly a stroll but with a few rugged steps. The route follows the rocky torrent upstream, and we find abundant wildflowers emerging. There is Sakura here too but mostly just coming into flower. The high cliffs on the right are covered in verdant vegetation and there are frequent waterfalls and rock faces streaming with water as springs spout from the rock. The finale is a fairly large, more conventional waterfall. Very pleasing with abundant spray. Overall, a splendid walk and we were the only people around. As we leave, another couple arrive laden with impressive camera equipment.

To me the place is well worth a visit. It is a little off the main course of Aso attractions and very low key in comparison.

Oka castle　岡城

From Shiramizu no Taki we move on to Taketa, another town we know well. The Bamboo Lantern festival (Chikuraku) in November is really something.

Today, we have come to walk in the castle ruins. It is too early for Sakura here but the views and jaw dropping drops are always worth a visit. The entrance fee for the castle, Okajo, is 300yen. Money well spent as the area is large. Okajo reputedly dates from the 12^th century and withstood an assault from the powerful Satsuma clan. It remained a powerful fortress until its destruction was ordered after the Meiji Restoration. Contemplating the skill and precision of constructing such a large edifice involving such massive blocks of masonry is humbling.

Harajiri waterfall

From the castle it is time for another waterfall. This one a much tamer affair and, unusually, amid rice fields. Given Harajiri no taki’s location it is impressive. Niagra it isn’t but to find a fall of such height and power in a benign landscape renders it striking. Here the water appears from everywhere to rush over the falls. The approach is quite unguarded, and you can get as close as you are stupid. There is a large Torii standing in the shallow, rushing water above the falls that does not seem to be aligned with the falls or the shrine some way off on the hillside. This Torii is the site of a local festival in November.

Adjacent to all this is a michi no eki Harajiri no taki where we spend the night. There are tulip fields spreading out from here that are the basis for an event to be held later in the month, but all is quiet when we alone spend the night.