Shimojo Ginko tree and Aso Oguni　下城の大銀杏と阿蘇小国

November 16th. 2024

Michi no eki Oguni　道の駅小国

Wake early in michi no eki Oguni. Very damp and misty morning, very warm too. We were too hot during the night.

Michi no eki Oguni we have visited many times but this was the first time to overnight. The parking adjacent to the toilets is limited for such a popular spot. Most of it given over to spaces for large vehicles. However we note an increase in the number of camper vans, especially the oversized ones.

The toilets are modern and clean, though rather too small for the amount of traffic. No rubbish bins are provided except for cans and pet bottles.

Shimojo, Ginko tree and waterfalls　下城の銀杏と滝

We leave and set off to view a famous Ginko / Ichyo tree some 15 minutes drive from the michi no eki. Sadly, the tree is past its best, the majority of leaves covering the ground. Also, a notice informs us that the usual illuminations have been cancelled for 2024 because branches have fallen and the tree needs attention.                                                                                    Nevertheless, a splendid tree reputed to be 1000 years old.

We are surprised to discover that the tree is neighbour to two rather pretty waterfalls, Shomojo waterfall and Nabekama waterfall, and take the time to explore the path around these. A very pleasant, short walk that takes you over what looks like a rather dodgy bridge but is not so bad in reality. Even D. crossed it in the event.

Hitome-yama and Misokobushi-yama　一目山とみそこぶし山

From Shimojo, the location of the Ginko tree, we set off for Hitome-yama. This takes us to Senomoto then left on the Yamanami Highway for a short while then left again on Oita Prefecture route 40. This is a very pretty road through spindly, deciduous trees not ablaze but in muted, autumn splendour.

Arriving at Hitome-yama, we park on the right hand side of the road and, after crossing it, follow a tarmac lane  (closed to traffic) for the first kilometre to the foot of the mountain. Hitome-yama is steep and obviously a shortish scramble.

My knees have seen better days so we continue on the more gradual ascent towards Misokobushi-yama. This is a pleasant walk through thin, autumn woods and susuki grass (Japanese pampas grass). Some bushes with striking bright red leaves have been introduced to the landscape.

Beyond Misokobushi-yama, lies a third peak which was well beyond my capabilities but I think this an excellent hike for most people. A recommended route for those who enjoy a long walk but are daunted by steep inclines.

Daikanbo　大観峰

Next, we head back to Oguni and on to Aso and Daikanbo. Daikanbo boasts an outstanding view of the Aso Caldera but not so spectacular today as there is a heavy cloud cover and drifting mist.

It is also Saturday and the main parking area is more crowded than I have ever seen it. We don’t approach too close but picnic at a safe distance. Then dropping down into the Aso basin we pass through the site of a major landslide. A few years ago the degree of destruction was very apparent but now you would probably not notice.

Aso Shrine　阿蘇神社

We stop at Aso Shrine. This is still undergoing reconstruction after a major earthquake at 2016 – a separate disaster – and is very busy with tourists. The famous Romon (front gate) was re-built 2023, it looks new but still very impressive.

After exploring the shrine, we wandered down the street in front to the famous ‘Mizuki’ (spring water spot).

We remembered more old shops selling ordinary things but now the  usual tourist shops dominate. Probably most of the buildings were damaged by the earthquake as were Aso shrine’s Romon gate.

Mt. Aso　阿蘇山

Taking the route over the central Aso peaks rather than around, we note the road up to the mouth of the active crater is open.

This has not been the case for many years. Last spring, we drove to the lower level where there are a number of derelict buildings that used to be souvenir shops and cafes.

Today for a mere 1000 yen you can drive up the equally steep road to the summit car park, walk up to the edge and peer into the crater that is spewing gasses and steam high into the overcast sky. If the billowing vapours clear momentarily, you might catch a glimpse of the turbulent green water boiling in the crater’s depths.

Shikinomori Onsen　四季の森

Heading down the south side of Mt. Aso, we plan to stop at Ruri onsen but sadly it is closed for refurbishment and we go to Shikinomori Onsen. This is a disappointment. It has no redeeming features. It is not even cheap. But we can get clean before arriving at michi no eki Kugino for the night. Here we are surprised by the large number of camping cars and yapping dogs.

＊Shikinomori Onsen ; 600 yen / adult