Omihachiman, Kyorinbou　　近江八幡　教林坊

2025 june 1

Come the morning Oribe no sato Motosu springs to life. There is a queue waiting for the shop to open at 8.30am.

This, we discover, is for a morning set breakfast for 500 yen. I suspect it is a good deal. So, despite the poor facilities, it is perhaps a good spot for an overnight stay after all.

We leave, to take the long drive to Omihachiman by Lake Biwa. The morning broke bright and clear but by the time we are skirting Lake Biwa the opposite shore is wreathed in cloud and there is a stiff wind off the water.

Omihachiman

In Omihachiman, we met the Sunday crowds. The free parking we were headed for by Himurehachiman Shrine is full. So, we park in a municipal parking area for 600yen and receive a city map, gratis.

We follow the canal/stream back to the shrine. This is a pretty walk along the water. The irises are in bloom along the banks and a traditional tourist boat with a conical hatted helmsman is navigating under a stone bridge.

For me, the shrine is of scant interest but there are lots of inbound tourist to observe. We wander past a tile museum across the canal and through old Edo style streets that are largely deserted and back to the car park. Not really a very interesting excursion.

Kyorinbo Temple

Now, we retrace our steps driving back the way we had come to Kyorinbo Temple. This was founded in the 6 hundreds but was derelict and deserted by the 1940’s.

However, a diligent, devoted and determined monk set about restoring it. It took 10 years of fund raising and his own practical restoration work for the place to become viable.

On a Sunday, there is a thin but steady stream of visitors. The monk himself, not proudly I am sure but humbly accepting the 600yen entrance fee. (Forgive my unwarranted cynicism). The temple has a splendid garden to wander through.

This garden was originally laid out by Kobori Enshu a very famous gardener and architect. He also designed Nijojo gardens, Katsura Rikyu and Nanzenji. And, I discover, Manshuin perhaps my favourite temple in Kyoto.

This later knowledge puts the monks determination into perspective but no less admirable.

So, a temple well worth visiting unlike the aforementioned shrine.

Michi no eki Kusatsu

We set off for a michi no eki somewhere in north Kyoto prefecture, expecting a long but possible drive but Sunday evening traffic heading into Kyoto city made this plan totally unrealistic. Accordingly we exit the Kosei Highway as soon as possible and recross Biwako Ohashi (this is a recurring theme on our trips to this area) to spend the night at michi no eki Kusatsu.

This appears reasonable enough though there is a sign in the toilets stating that Vandalism is Prohibited. Just how effective such a sign might prove is debatable. The facilities themselves are large in area but limited in terms of function. Only 2 stalls, one Japanese style and no washlet!