Mizonokuchi Cave and Miike Lake 溝口洞穴、御池
November 21st. 2024
Miike Lake 御池
Michi no eki Ebino provided a good night and we set off for Mizonokuchi Doketsu. On the way to this large cave, we are sidetracked by a sign to Miike, a small lake that we passed yesterday. The sign has a picture of a Fairy Pitta. I have never seen this bird so we make for the lake. The lake presents a splendid view of placid water with Mt Takachiho (maybe) looming in the background. Here you can rent paddle boats and canoes but the rental place is closed as is the path around the lake edge due to a rockfall.
We note that there is a bird sanctuary adjacent to the lake so drive the hundred metres or so back along the road to the entrance to the wildlife preserve and campsite.
We follow the nature trail through damp, mixed woodland for a while. There is lots of moss, lichen and creepers but no change in scenery and no Fairy Pitta sightings. This is not surprising, as we learn it is a rare,summer visitor.
We wander down to the campsite where the tranquility of the water and silence of the forest is rent by someone with a leaf blower. How I despise these things.
Sekinoo no taki 関之尾滝
This walk has taken care of the morning, so we head for Sekinoo no taki. This waterfall has a park where we intend to have lunch. The car park has a Snow Peak cafe and the company has clearly invested in the site.
From the car park, you drop down a steep incline to the falls. There is wheelchair access. On the way you pass the most hideous, orange-painted concrete shrine I have ever seen. I intended to take a picture of it on the way back but we ended up taking a circular route so did not pass it again.
There are 3 separate falls. OK, but not spectacular. A suspension bridge takes you to the other side of the river and you can climb steps to the top of the falls and see the river running through the smooth outcrops of potholed rock that make up the river bed. Then, crossing back over the water above the falls you can walk back to the car park avoiding the arduous climb. A pleasant enough place for a picnic lunch.
Mizonokuchi Doketsu 溝口洞穴
Finally, we are on our way to Mizonokuchi Doketsu (cave). Here there is a walk of some 200 metres from the car park to the cave entrance. In front of the cave mouth there is a not very impressive torii and a statue of some Bodhisattva.
There is a stall with boxes of torches/flashlights to borrow while visiting the cave. These are necessary as the cave is very dark and cell phone torches make little impression. Sadly, the complimentary flashlights sorely need fresh batteries so their light is rather feeble too.
Enough, however, to light the uneven floor so you can see where you are walking and to light patches of the ceiling. This is peppered with large holes and these holes are home to alarmingly large centipedes. Geji geji in Japanese. Basically harmless.
Although the cave is about 200 metres in length, only the first perhaps 30 to 40 metres are open to the public. The explanation of its formation seems reasonable but is subject to conjecture. I will not go into that here.
Michi no eki Nango
From the cave, we drive to michi no eki Nango for the night. At first sight, it seems excellent.
It is part of a botanical garden complex, that we will explore in the morning, and overlooking the sea. The car park is therefore quite large. Tonight maybe 5 overnight vehicles. The toilet is small but features green ceramics, exotic plants and one washlet.
The author is a long term resident of Japan who has and continues to travel the country extensively. Avoiding highways where possible, the author has driven from Kagoshima in Kyushu to Wakanai in Hokkaido covering 20,000 plus kilometres and counting.