Matsuyama Castle, an original castle tower. 松山城

March 30^th. 2024

Michi no eki Nakayama is very busy from early morning. I can only ascribe this to the excellent facilities. The day is warm and hazy as we set off for Matsuyama Castle by way of Unozaki Toge (Pass) and Tobe town(PR53). The pass provides an interesting, narrow, winding drive with typical Shikoku steep mountainsides and narrow valleys. We were hoping for spectacular views from the top of the pass but were hemmed in by trees. Nevertheless, a good route to choose.

Dropping down into Tobe town we were expecting a village, but it is quite a substantial place warranting a dual carriageway. The central meridian decorated with large pots of traditional Tobe ware. One assumes they are nailed down.

Matsuyama Castle

On to Matsuyama Castle. On a warm Saturday during Spring Break parking is hard to come by near the castle but we strike lucky. However, we join a long queue to buy tickets for the ropeway or chair lift. You buy your 520yen return ticket and take your choice as the same ticket works for either. In any reasonable weather I would recommend the chair lift as the more pleasant ride.

The castle itself is very interesting for those interested in castles. Hugely impressive stone walls with impeccable curves plus lots of massive wood beams. Most of it is relatively modern and some positively recent. Parts date back to the early 1600’s just after Sekigahara but others are post 1945. If I sound dismissive it is because I am not a fan of castles, and the Sakura was not in bloom negating the perfect shot.

We join the other Saturday crowds traipsing to the top, admiring the suits of armour and sharp swords, the massive timbers and precise stonework. There is plenty of information concerning the origins and histories of the various occupying Lords, but they backed the wrong side during the Meiji restoration. Why the castle was not razed as so many others were at that time I do not know.

＊Matsuyama castle tower ; 520 yen /adult

＊Ropeway ; 520 yen / return

Ishiteji Temple　石手寺

From the castle we set off to visit Ishiteji Temple. This is number 51 of the 88 Henro trail temples. It is a little unusual and thus more interesting than most. The entrance is a wooden, covered arcade and there is a cage like tower with carved wooden figures inside. The figures are reminiscent of Enku but are a tad too sophisticated to be his.

Then there is the temple gate, the inside of which is adorned this a couple of enormous Zori (straw sandals) These are thickly embedded with what I at first thought to be 100yen coins but on inspection proved to be 1yen coins so significant, if not serious, money involved.

There is also a bell which you are free to toll. This used to be common, free ringing of bells, but has become increasingly rare. To the left of the main building is a flight of steps leading up into the mountains. This is the Henro pilgrim trail leading to the next temple.

Michi no eki Konoka　道の駅木の香

For the night we have decided to stay at michi no eki Konoka. This is a small place, but it has an onsen attached. From Ishite ji it is reached through the 5.4-kilometre Kampusan Tunnel. The road is empty and has sweeping curves rising and falling till, in the middle of nowhere, there is a small onsen hotel and michi no eki. The onsen is modern and very pleasant. The michi no eki parking is limited but the facilities are surprisingly good for somewhere deep in the mountains. Very, very quiet.

*Sadly this placed closed May 2024. The toilets and parking are still functional apparently. Awaiting new ownership.