Kyoto Takao (Sanbi meguri) 京都高雄 三尾巡り

Nov. 5th. 2025
Michi no eki Miyama 道の駅美山
Unsurprisingly, michi no eki Miyama provided a very quiet night. We were probably the only shachuhaku vehicle. The large space was very dark and the filthy toilets only one step up from a hole in the ground. Not to be recommended. To give it its due it does have rubbish bins.
We set off for Kyoto. There are three temples in the north west of the city that D. wants to visit.
Saimyoji 槇尾西明寺
Arriving in Takao, we park by the river next to the entrance to Saimyoji just by the orange bridge. The parking is an exorbitant 1000 yen but we can walk to all three temples from here. These temples are famed for the autumn colour of the surrounding momiji, among other things I am sure. This year the momiji are late and, for the most part, resolutely green.
We cross the bridge and follow the steps up the hillside to the temple. This has some splendid images and a garden but nothing outstanding as far as I could see.
*Saimyoji ; 700 yen / adult
Kosanji and Chojugiga 栂尾高山寺
Retracing our steps down and over the bridge, we walk up to the main road. This is busy, narrow and there are no pavements to speak of. After 5 or 10 minutes we reach Kosanji, climb up to the entrance and pay 500 yen. This entrance fee is only charged in autumn. We decline to pay a further 1000 yen to enter Sekisui-in the small temple where Chojugiga( a famous old artefact a frolicking frog picture) exist. These works are endlessly reproduced and we were not inclined to view the originals.
This left us Kozanji which, as far as we could tell, did not exist. There was a very primitive toilet, some bushes, a large desolate area where large trees had been felled some time ago and a mid-sized wooden hall structure with no access and that was it. If you are inclined to visit these three mountain temples, two out of three is favorite. Skip Kosanji.
Jingoji 高尾神護寺
Walking back the way we came, past our parked car, to Jingoji. Here, along the river, are two or three restaurants offering open air dining to the well heeled. A set meal of tofu, under the momiji for a little in excess of 5000yen. We lunch on an energy bar.
Up the steps, and the steps, and the steps to the temple. On the way are a few restaurants offering dango, udon and one enterprising establishment offering momiji shaped pizza.
The main hall of the temple is something worth seeing. The interior woodwork is of a satisfying deep red and there are some excellent wood statues of the twelve heavenly generals plus four guardians. Was it worth the effort of climbing there? I am not sure. We felt satisfied, finally, but we needed the exercise after days of too much driving in the rain.
*Jingoji ; 1000 yen / adult
Takao Arashiyama Parkway 高雄嵐山パークウェイ
To avoid Kyoto city as much as possible, we take advantage of the Takao Arashiyama Parkway. This is a 1800 yen toll road. Pleasant enough, with great views over Kyoto city. We come down briefly into the madness of Arashiyama and a touch of western Kyoto before escaping through Kameoka. We head for Himeiji and our michi no eki at Yokawa. This michi no eki is very large and has an onsen.
Michi no eki Yokawa
At first we park near the entrance and road and toilet, but we realize this toilet is not 24 hours. There is another toilet at the deep end of the car park. This is accessible from both sides so it is possible to park close enough. The facilities are very good , modern, clean and stylish. The onsen is also very nice.
*Yokawa onsen “Yokatan” ; 800 yen / adult
The author is a long term resident of Japan who has and continues to travel the country extensively. Avoiding highways where possible, the author has driven from Kagoshima in Kyushu to Wakanai in Hokkaido covering 20,000 plus kilometres and counting.





