Kunimigaoka and Mitate gorge 国見が丘、見立渓谷
November 19th. 2024
Kunimigaoka, cloud sea.
The night at michi no eki Seiunbashi was very cold, a sudden, drastic drop in temperature. 3 degrees C with the clear sky, bright with a waning moon.
This morning D. wants to go to Kunimigaoka to view the cloud sea. Consequently, we set the alarm for 6.30 and set off before breakfast.
It is, however, quite a long drive and well past sunrise when we arrive to a wonderful view with an almost complete absence of cloud. We can see a puff of smoke hanging over Mt. Aso far away in the distance. The reclining Buddha, formed by Nekodake and Aso, very clear on the horizon. We walk along the ridge enjoying the view in the early morning sunshine.
Back at the car park, we breakfast and realize we could have stayed here overnight. The parking is flat, the toilets well equipped with washlets and heated seats. Even if we had stayed here, I don’t think there was any cloud sea to see on this particular morning.
Prefectural Route 6 to Mitate Gorge
From Kunimigaoka, we set off along Prefectural Route 6 for Mitate Gorge as there is an easy hike on offer. We have made a mistake, however, as the distance to the gorge is far greater than we thought. But Prefectural Route 6 is another wonder of limited width and tight curves. Easier than Prefectural Route 7 as it is essentially flat but another drive that requires vigilant attention to avoid disaster. We meet, perhaps, 5 other vehicles during the entire length of the road, some 29 kilometres.
At Mitate Gorge we park and take the short one hour circular hike. We start on the opposite side of the river from the parking area.
It is not a great walk. Initially, it is rough underfoot with loose rocks then smoother in the Sugi forest. Here it is shady with limited views and, on this day, cold. On the return, after crossing the bridge to the road side it is warmer in the intermittent sunshine. It is also more open so the scenery is better with vague traces of koyo (autumn leaves). Though pleasant enough, it is not special in an area of such extraordinary beauty.
If you travel Prefectural Route 6, a good idea, it is worth breaking up the drive here to stretch the legs on this short walk but Mitate Gorge is not worth a special trip.
Michi no eki Yuparu-nojiri
We now have a long drive to michi no eki Yuparu-nojiri. It is a long drive but michi no eki are limited in this area and we want one with an onsen. We have stayed here twice before but this time there are more overnighters. We used to be the only vehicle now there are perhaps 10. The onsen here is very pleasant, not flashy but spacious and well laid out. Used mostly by locals.
*Kobayashi Nojiri no yu ; 500 yen / adult
The author is a long term resident of Japan who has and continues to travel the country extensively. Avoiding highways where possible, the author has driven from Kagoshima in Kyushu to Wakanai in Hokkaido covering 20,000 plus kilometres and counting.