Kamiyama, weeping cherry town　神山町

April 4^th. 2024

Kamiyama Onsen michi no eki is very quiet during the night but comes alive early in the morning. Perhaps it is a meeting point for construction crews.

We set off for Shosan-ji temple, number 12 on the Henro trail and the second highest (938m). On the way, we stop to take pictures of Shidare Sakura (weeping cherry) this is Kamiyama after all.

Shosan-ji temple　焼山寺

The temple is reached by a tortuous, narrow lane necessitating the odd reverse to accommodate oncoming traffic. At the top, is a large car park from which you follow a track with a steep cliff face on one side and views over the valley to the mountains beyond on the other. This is a distance of maybe 500 metres. The valley side has a stone balustrade with the occasional cute stone animal and the rock face side various Bodhavistas.

The temple itself is not of any particular interest. It does have some huge cedar trees and a cute, thatched phone box with the once ubiquitous green pay phone. Also, strangely, a child’s swing by its great bell. This place is worth a visit for its location rather than for the temple itself.

Our next objective was to be Yuuka no Sato. This park is a mountainside hosting 500 weeping cherry trees. We were naive in not anticipating the crowds. We take one look pullout of the traffic and drive on. This route now takes us by way of another tortuous lane to Tokushima town. Here we have a picnic lunch far from any cherry trees in Bunka no mori park.

Ferry to Wakayama

From Bunka no mori park which houses museums and a library we set off for the Nankai Ferry to take us to Wakayama. We take the 1.20pm ferry but the first one leaves at 2 something in the morning. This Nakai ferry is linked to Kansai airport by way of the Nankai railway hence the extensive timetable.  The crossing takes about 2 hours and 20 minutes.

＊Nankai ferry (Tokushima → Wakayama) ; 13,000 yen (under 5m car and a driver) + 2,500 yen / adult

Shirasaki Kaiyo Koen　白崎海洋公園

On arrival in Wakayama Prefecture, we drive south and finally arrive at Shirasaki Kaigan Kaiyo Koen (ocean park). This is to be our michi no eki for the night but what a bizarre spot it is. There are marvelous limestone rock formations at the end of a small peninsular.

This place has been famous for scenic views a long time, then became a lime stone mine in the Meiji era and a naval base in WW2. After the war, the mine reopened until 1972.

I assume the local authority attempted to capitalize on the unique geography of the spot to make some kind of attraction which failed. Now, there is a car park with a large michi no eki building and a dismal looking campsite.

And, around the headland, a derelict pink building that once I suspect held a gym and swimming pool. I discover the building was damaged by typhoons and subsequently abandoned.

The limestone here forms a semi-circular bastion against the sea and there is a viewing spot up on the rocks which at sunset turn a pleasing shade of pink.

The michi no eki Shirasaki Kaiyo Koen is an expanse of windswept car park which tonight hosts 3 vehicles huddled around a rectangular pink tiled toilet with an illuminated dome on top. Odd.