Iya-kei, the remote gorge beyond Kazura bashi, to Unpeiji temple　祖谷渓から雲辺寺

March 31^st. 2024

Early on Sunday morning michi no eki Konoka becomes decidedly less quiet. Numerous people arrive to use the facilities, hikers, bikers, and families. The Radio Taiso (calisthenics) was also something of a shock. A good place that has, nevertheless, withstood the test of a second visit.

Nikobuchi　にこ淵

As usual, we are the last of the overnighters to leave as we set off for Nikobuchi. This is a waterfall and blue pool. It has become more well known of late, but the parking is still haphazard at the top of the usual narrow, winding road. There is now a set of prefabricated steps to take you down to the falls. It is not far and I, with a damaged knee which precludes serious walking on this trip, am able to descend and ascend without much difficulty.

The fall is modestly spectacular and is enhance by the pool. Not a place to blow the mind but worth the effort of a visit.

Iya-kei　祖谷渓

From Nikobuchi we head towards Iya no Kazura-bashi (vine bridge) yet avoid this popular spot for 2 reasons. D. does not like suspension bridges, especially those made of string, and it is popular. So, we take prefecture R 32 towards Statue of Shonben Kozo (peeing boy). This road is extreme, very narrow in places with a rock face one side and very long drop into a very deep gorge on the other. So steep and narrow the gorge that as the driver I was unable to see the bottom. Of course, oncoming traffic is a rarity but if you meet something delicate reversing and maneuvering is necessary.

The Peeing Boy statue is just like all the others in suburban, garden ponds except that this one is pissing into the abyss. We rattle and squirm on until we can find spot to stop and admire the view. We pass a viewing spot, but all the parking is taken by a biker group. When we do find a spot to stop most of the gorge is behind us.

Unpenji temple　雲辺寺

On reaching the end of the gorge we take the road to Unpenji. This, number 66, is the highest temple (927m) on the 88-temple pilgrimage route. We take the ropeway up to the temple and are very glad we did. At 2200 yen return we thought it a bit steep, but it turned out to be the most impressive ropeway we have experienced. The trip is only 7 minutes and the day hazy but the ropeway travels at some speed. The view is outstanding even on hazy day, so on a clear day the landscape far, far below and the Setonaikai sea beyond must be truly stunning. If such a creature as a follower of this blog existed, they would know I do not give undue praise.

At the top of the mountain there is a park (Unpenji sancho koen) which has the huge swing. A result of the park being popular as an instagram spot I suppose.

The temple itself is basically a concrete bore. The one redeeming feature is the large number, literally hundreds, of stone (concrete?) figures and the comic nature of many of these pieces. We have seen such figure before at Zentsuji temple. What is their origin??

From the temple, we seek our michi no eki for the night. This is Takarada no Sato Saita. It has ample parking and the building is a sweeping modern design of concrete and pipes. The facilities inside this imposing exterior are modest. There is an onsen 2 minutes’ drive up the hill. Not great but nice enough. Very busy on a Sunday night. As we arrive so does the thunder. The parking is close to the toilets but still a chasm in the downpour.

＊Tamaki no yu (onsen) :570 Yen/adult