Ishiyamadera　石山寺

April 9^th. 2024

Ayama michi no eki appears modern, at first, but is basic in the toilet department. On a very wet night, it is possible to park close to the facilities so exposure to the unkind elements is limited.
Probably due to its basic nature, it is not popular in the morning and few cars drop in. Its only redeeming feature is that it is generous with rubbish bins.

Leaving Ayama, we head for Lake Biwa but by chance notice Ishiyamadera. This name rings bells with D. so we stop and are pleased we did.

Ishiyamadera

The temple dates from the Heian era 1096 CE. and we realize as the bus tours start to arrive, that Murasaki Shikibu the author of the “Tale of Genji” began to write her novel in this temple.
Obviously, this has been a fact for hundreds of years but this year there is an NHK drama based on her. Hence the bus tours.

The Tale of Genji is important in Japanese literature as the first novel written by a woman and I think has a connection to the use of hiragana.

Leaving aside Heian Era novelists, the temple is very large, built on a hillside of exposed rock, has impressive buildings, a pagoda in the style of Koya san and pleasant gardens.

In this spring season, what made the place stunning were the moss and fern covered rocks, the trees just coming into fresh, green leaf and the cherry blossom here and there. No doubt other seasons offer different delights.

Certainly one worth visiting.

I realize, belatedly, writing this that the Heian era carriage I noted parked in the middle of a mossy garden is a result of the NHK drama.

＊Ishiyamadera ; 600 yen / adult

Lake Biwa

After wandering all around the gardens, we set off up the eastern side of Lake Biwa. The landscape on east side of the lake is very flat but the lake shore can be beautiful and mysterious especially in misty conditions.
Today there is a gale blowing and Biwako has waves. The mountains on the western shore are grey and obscured in low cloud. I think the drive up this eastern side is more rewarding than on the west.

From Kinomoto in Nagahama city, at the top of Lake Biwa, we take R. 303 to michi no eki Fujihashi. This is a grand road with sweeping curves and no traffic. It was also a return to a more wintery landscape. The Gifu mountains not yet showing spring foliage so a more monochrome landscape with smudges of pink.

At michi no eki Fujihashi, we find parking near modern toilets and a fine onsen at the other end of an enormous carpark. The parking serves the onsen, a restaurant, a folk museum and, tonight, a couple of shachuhaku vehicles at this end.

＊Fujihashi no yu ; 540 yen /adult