Henro Trail Ryozenji temple　霊山寺

April 3^rd. 2024

The rain in the night at michi no eki Itano was of little consequence, stopping and starting in an opportune manner but the day ahead is a wet prospect.

We set off to a coin laundry so as not to waste a fine day.

Ryozenji temple

After the laundry, we go to see temple number 1 of the Henro trail, Ryozenji.

This temple is of some interest. It has a solid wooden gate not large but elegant and immediately inside a pond across which is a view of a hall topped with gold ornamentation.

The pagoda is of particular interest having a rounded mid-section. I am sure there is a special word for this style. You can look it up if you can be bothered. At this time of year, it is nicely augmented by cherry blossom.

In the main hall there is a dazzling array of lanterns and if you look up an easily missed dragon on the ceiling.

There is the shop by the temple selling all the necessary goods to begin a Henro pilgrimage. Here they offer advice for the trail and even teach you how to wear the costume.

The temple is not large but well worth seeing even if you are not prepared to traipse round the other 87.

Gokurakuji temple

Next, we drop into number 2 Gokurakiji temple, which for those who have hiked all the way from number 1 must be something of a disappointment. Apart from a splendid pair of Nioh Sama, the temple guardians, and a tall, twisted sugi tree not much at all.

Awa Odori Museum

In the still intermittent rain of the afternoon, we visit the Awa Odori Museum in Tokushima. This place is dedicated to the Awa dori or dance, one of the most famous Obon dance festivals. The dance takes place over 5 days during the Obon festival in August.
In the museum, we are treated to a professional display by a dance group and an exhibition plus an explanation of how the dance has evolved through the centuries, the instruments used and so on. Us, the audience, is of course, invited to strut our stuff at one point.

＊Daytime stage ; 800 yen /adult

We then take a bath at the nearby Aratae no Yu. This is more a super sento though the water is apparently onsen. It is ok as a functional place to get clean, but I am not a big fan of large TV screens over the rotenburo (outside bath)

＊Aratae no yu ; 750 yen / adult

Kamiyama

From the super sento we drive to our michi no eki for the night, Kamiyama. Here the nearby onsen is closed for repairs hence the super sento. The michi no eki itself is small and the facilities only passable but it is in Kamiyama Town which is a splendour of weeping cherry trees all in spectacular bloom.

We came this way last year but just had to give it another look. If your timing is lucky, there is superb cherry blossom everywhere. Up on the hillsides, along the rivers and roads, in parks and gardens. Quite how this came about I have no idea, but it is the best place for unassuming Sakura I know.