Harajiri waterfall to Amanoiwato shrine　原尻の滝から天岩戸神社

November 18th. 2024

Harajiri waterfall　原尻の滝

Left Taketa and made for Takachiho. On the way we stopped at Harajiri waterfall. We have been here before but it is a pleasant spot. The waterfall is unusual in that it is set in the middle of rice fields. There is a large torii gate in the water just above the falls.

During a local festival, a Mikoshi or portable shrine is carried through the gate at night by scantily clad young men. This event had taken place just the night before and large fires were still smouldering.

This is a popular place, many of the surrounding fields are given over to the cultivation of tulips. A magnificent sight at the right time of year.

Prefectural Route 7, the road to Takachiho　緒方高千穂線

Leaving the falls we plot a course for Takachiho but, just down the road, we stop to look at Tsujikawara stone sauna. This is a primitive sauna cut into the rock face. It is still in use as a traditional event at New Year but does not look very inviting to say the least.

We continue down Prefectural Route 7 which is one of those roads with a smooth surface and clearly delineated edges with a neat, white line down the middle, the sweeping curves of which suddenly becomes a narrow lane covered in leaves and branches snaking above the abyss.

Narrow, winding and steep in places, it snakes its way above a gorge and offers some stunning scenery. We encounter almost no traffic. The road crosses between Mt. Sobo and Mt. Katamuki. It was closed for a while following typhoon damage but reopened in December 2023. This is a demanding drive and very long. Recommended.

Amanoiwato Shrine, Takachiho　天岩戸神社

At the end of Prefectural Route 7, you are suddenly in Takachiho, at Amanoiwato Shrine Nishi-hongu (west shrine). This is an important place for Shinto as it is the site where the myth of the Sun Goddess being coaxed out of the cave originates. This myth is tied up with the foundation of Japan and the divine emperor system. For such an important place in Shinto it is surprisingly mediocre.

By chance, we join a party being shown the cave in question. This is off limits unless you are part of an official group. D. is surprised when the priest showing us the mysterious cave, explains that the whole thing is based on the human need for belief and humans therefore make gods out of other humans. The Emperor, Buddha, Jesus, all people he points out.

To hear such a secular explanation, from a priest at the shrine associated with a founding myth of Japan and the divinity of the Emperor, was – as she put it – refreshing.

From Amanoiwato Shrine, we walk down the river to another cave of sorts ‘Amanoyasukawara’, more of an overhang. Here there is modest wooden torii and lots of stones in balanced piles. A very unimpressive place with lots of people wandering around wondering what to take pictures of.

Michi no eki Seiunbashi　道の駅青雲橋

From there to michi no eki Seiunbashi. This appears very new, probably recently refurbished. It has a shop selling the usual local produce, here heavy on the shiitake mushroom. Unusually, it has an upstairs viewing platform with a view of a steel bridge. The toilets are clean and very modern. Parking is spacious and flat. There are no rubbish bins.