Dinosaur Day in Fukui 福井県勝山
April 11th. 2024
Michi no eki Katsuyama is a very practical spot for an overnight stay. The parking is flat and extensive. The facilities are very modern and clean and there are ample rubbish bins. Despite the dinosaur models, it is a characterless place, but it does have views of very distant, still snowy mountains.
Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum 福井県立恐竜博物館
We set off for the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum. This is an excellent spot for dinosaur enthusiasts of all ages and for anyone with a remote interest in how life on Earth evolved over millennia.
The museum has changed since our first visit in 2017. It has clearly become more popular. A reservation is required but it is possible to enter without one at off peak times.
At 9.30am on a Thursday we had no trouble but at weekends and holidays and perhaps later in the day a reservation would be necessary. The number of visitors increased dramatically as we wandered through the exhibits.
Few of the exhibits are genuine dinosaur bones, most are replicas but, in all honesty, it makes little difference in the awe-inspiring department. Most models are skeletal, but some are fleshed out and a few are animated. These move, hold your gaze and roar in quite an alarming fashion.
The one disappointment was the restaurant. It has become expensive and the menu ridiculous. I enjoyed a memorable udon a few years ago, alas no more. It is heavy on gimmicks and the soba I had was poor. If you go, avoid the restaurant. There is another one outside the main building which may be better or if the weather is warm take a bento and eat outside. Your ticket allows re-entry.
*Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum ; 1000 yen / adult
Heisenji Hakusan Jinjya 平泉寺白山神社
From the museum, we call in at Heisenji Hakusan Shrine. This is a very famous place with a long and complex history. Mainly it seems to be backing losers in interminable power struggles.
It was once a large, influential, and prosperous place hence its fame and historical importance. Now, it provides a pleasant walk through a grove of massive sugi trees and a carpet of moss. The few remaining structures are relatively modern, of little consequence and mostly falling into disrepair. All reminiscent of Ozymandias.
Our michi no eki for the night is Zen no Sato. This is very popular. There are several obvious shachuhaku (overnight) vehicles in the car park. This is probably because the place has an onsen.
A disappointment it turns out as it is very cramped. The changing area is too small for the number of people and lockers. Inside there are two small baths and one tiny rotenburo (outside bath). All on the hot side which means at least no one lingers. There is also a sauna. The majority of people appear to be locals.
The michi no eki facilities are modern though very limited.
*Zen no Sato onsen ; 520 yen /adult
The author is a long term resident of Japan who has and continues to travel the country extensively. Avoiding highways where possible, the author has driven from Kagoshima in Kyushu to Wakanai in Hokkaido covering 20,000 plus kilometres and counting.