Climbing Kurumayama 車山

May 23rd. 2025
Michi no eki Venus Line Tateshina 道の駅ビーナスライン蓼科
Morning at Venus Line Tateshina michi no eki. This michi no eki, situated on the shore of Lake Tateshina, is a popular spot and preparation for the weekend tourist rush is underway. Stalls are being set up for food, cute things and arty stuff but, this early, things are still pretty quiet.
The lake is not very large and provides an easy walk around its perimeter. There is a small sculpture garden (Tateshina highland Geijutsu no mori sculpture park) that has some interesting pieces but mostly a lake walk of trees, reeds, coots and watery reflection. We wandered it at dusk last night which is possibly the best time.
From an overnight perspective, it is a good place to stay though certainly not at a weekend. The toilets are clean and very modern. There are, however, large conspicuous signs prohibiting brushing of teeth at the wash basins. I can think of no logical reason for this prohibition other than to discourage overnight visitors. As this is an upmarket tourist spot they can do without the shachuhaku fraternity.
Conclusion, nice spot but avoid at weekends.
Kurumayama 車山
Leaving Tateshina we set off for Kurumayama. This mountain offers a number of different hiking courses. It is not steep or very far to the summit. Being old and of incipient decrepitude this is ideal. It is possible, of course, to be much more energetic and follow more ambitious routes to the Yashimagahara wetland, for example.
We opt for the simple trek to the summit with its black cube and ping-pong ball on top. This is a radar weather station and is visible for many miles around. It stands out as it is on the highest peak and the surrounding hills are virtually treeless mostly covered with sasa grass.
The hike from the car park to the summit is supposed to take twenty minutes but took us much longer. The going underfoot is very rough. Large stones, rocks and boulders all very loose so twisted ankle territory. The views all around are splendid but most of the time one is watching one’s step so it pays to pause every so often and take a good look around.
The summit, besides the radar station, has platforms and benches from which to absorb the views. Rather obscured today as the distance is cloudy. No chance to see Fuji san but a few snowy peaks glimpsed at times. There is also a small, wind swept shrine with four stark wooden columns at the corners, unusual.
Yashimagahara Wetland 八島ヶ原湿原
After picking our way down, we drive to the Yashigahara wetland and walk the circuit. Here it is early spring. Green shoots showing here and there but mostly an expanse of dried, dead reeds. Plants already in late flower in Kyushu are hardly emerging from the ground. But cuckoos are calling everywhere as are the pheasants.
We complete the circular path around the wetland, always an enjoyable walk.
By now tired, we drive to Shinshu Tsutakijuku for a bath and a parking spot near the facilities as rain is forecast.

The author is a long term resident of Japan who has and continues to travel the country extensively. Avoiding highways where possible, the author has driven from Kagoshima in Kyushu to Wakanai in Hokkaido covering 20,000 plus kilometres and counting.