Cape Sata, view of East China Sea and Pacific Ocean　佐多岬

November 24th. 2024

Michi no eki Kinko Nishiki no Sato

Kinko Nishiki no Sato was a good choice for an overnight. Even on a Saturday night there were only 2 other vehicles so the limited facilities were not an issue. It was very quiet and provides a splendid view.

In the morning, it was busy with locals shopping as the michi no eki seems to fill the role of a local supermarket. There is also a Lawsons next door.

From Kinko Nishiki no Sato our destination is Cape Sata, the southernmost tip of Kyushu. The road approaching the Cape is deserted and the nearer you get the more tropical the vegetation. Soon there are Banyan tendrils/roots? Hanging down over the road.

Cape Sata　佐多岬

When we arrive there are a few cars in the car park and a large Banyan tree in the centre.

Cape Sata Banyan Tree

We walk through the tunnel that leads to the shrine, the observation deck and the abandoned lighthouse staff housing. This involves a walk of some 500 metres along concrete pathways through thick tropical vegetation.

First, there is an unremarkable concrete shrine then the paths diverge. You can choose the observation deck or historical British built lighthouse keeper’s housing. They’re not mutually exclusive, of course. On a previous visit to this place in 2017, the observatory was closed for renovation so the path ended at the shrine but now you can walk and climb to the magnificent view over the Pacific Ocean and the East China Sea. Mt. Kaimondake a pimple in the distant haze.

Cape Sata Observatory

Mt.Kaimon from Cape Sata

On our return, we stop at the shrine for D. to collect a Goshoin. The priest who writes, draws, creates? the Goshoin has just started a ritual chant. He will be about 5 minutes, says the helpful lady at the desk, so we wait. To sweeten the delay she provides us both with a piece of chocolate. Another, only in Japan moment.

Cape Sata Misaki Shrine

Back at the car park things are now much busier, numerous cars and swarms of bikers and cyclists. It is a sunny Sunday.

Hanaze Park　花瀬自然公園

We decide to take a look at Hanaze Park. This, when we arrive, is a wide, flat rock river bed with scant water.

Hanaze Park

On this day it was the GOAL for some long distance trail run. Nothing for us here and on leaving meet a few desultory runners as we head for Hetsuka Beach, This is the sea turtle beach that we drove past yesterday. We have decided we must take a look.

Hetsuka Beach　辺塚海岸

What we find, at the end of a long winding descent, is a small community and a longish sandy beach that would be described as secluded. The coarse sand of the beach shelves very steeply but, even so, the power of the swell rides up the steep gradient with surprising ease causing us to jump to avoid wet feet. I suspect swimming here would be foolhardy. No turtles, of course, but a fine spot nevertheless.

Hetsuka Beach

Michi no eki Tarumizu

We now have a long drive back to our michi no eki for the night, Tarumizu. This is fine for shachuhaku. The parking is flat with a view of the water and if you crane to the left Mt. Sakurajima is looming and spewing smoke.

The toilets are large, clean and modern. The onsen is cheap at 350 yen but does not provide soap, shampoo etc. It is plain and functional, not a place for an indulgent soak but fine for shachuhaku travellers to get clean.

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d.d

The author is a long term resident of Japan who has and continues to travel the country extensively.  Avoiding highways where possible, the author has driven from Kagoshima in Kyushu to Wakanai in Hokkaido covering 20,000 plus kilometres and counting.