Aoi Aso jinja 青井阿蘇神社
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November 26th. 2024
Michi no eki Nishiki
The covered walkway to the toilets at michi no eki Nishiki proved invaluable as torrential rain hit during the night. The toilets themselves are very new and modern with what appears to be a new michi no eki standard. We have noted the same pattern in newly refurbished toilets elsewhere. There are specific toilets for children and baby changing rooms. Admirable, but a massive use of space that limits other areas.
Aoi Aso Shrine
We set off in the rain to Aoi Aso Jinja. This is an interesting shrine and one of the national treasures in Kyushu, apparently. The main buildings are very old, thatched and decorated with unusual carvings that represent a blending of styles again, apparently. The shrine suffered during a big flood in 2020, and has been restored quite recently.
It was, however, the administrative buildings ‘ Aoi no mori Kokuho Kinenkan‘ that caught my attention. At first I thought the building was about to be re-thatched, then I realized it was a Kuma Kengo building. This architect came to national attention for his design of the Tokyo Olympic main stadium in 2020.
We were already familiar and impressed by his work after visiting Yusuhara in Shikoku, a place that boasts many of his buildings.
The structure at Aoi Aso Shrine is very striking, modern and yet somehow traditional.
Just beautiful. I confess, I’m a fan.
Itsuki 五木
In off and on torrential rain, we make for Itsuki. The village is new and appears to be a thriving and expanding community. The original village was flooded in a dam project and the present site is where the inhabitants were, reluctantly, relocated.
The michi no eki Itsuki was undergoing renovation but the brand new toilet block was open and followed the same pattern we have noted in other renovated michi no eki toilets.
Route 445 to Misato 美里
From Itsuki we take Route 445 to Misato. This road is always an adventure, The chance of encountering oncoming traffic is low but today, on an especially narrow section, we meet two cars followed by three small trucks. Clearly it was me who was going to reverse and it proved to be quite some distance before passing was possible.
From Nihonsugi Toge to Misato a road as narrow and tortuous as they come, it just goes down a long, long winding way. We have driven this road a few times but haven’t yet met a car coming up.
Eventually. We reach Ariake michi no eki. This place has parking in a kind of plaza around a central tree but it is possible to park close to the facilities. It also has a fine onsen accessible from the michi no eki parking by a flight of steps or a steep and I guess wheelchair not exactly friendly path. Alternatively, you can drive up to the onsen entrance. The onsen is large and tonight, few bathers.
*Ariake onsen Sazanami-no-yu ; 600yen / adult
The author is a long term resident of Japan who has and continues to travel the country extensively. Avoiding highways where possible, the author has driven from Kagoshima in Kyushu to Wakanai in Hokkaido covering 20,000 plus kilometres and counting.