Ameushi Waterfall and Bamboo Lantern Festival 黄牛の滝、竹楽
November 17th. 2024
Michi no eki Kugino
Wake in michi no eki Kugino. The morning reveals an unbelievable number of overnight stay vehicles. The car park here can accommodate 230 to 250 cars and it must be almost full. Camping cars seem to have taken over from the Hi-ace van as the vehicle of choice. The number of dogs is also astounding till we discover the the michi no eki is the venue for a dog festival.
We spend a lot of time absorbed in the dog run. The interactions between the various individuals is very interesting. Lots of dogs from the odd mutt and Shiba to Old English Sheepdogs, a Borzoi and a Newfoundland.
Embarrassing levels of stupidity on display too with dogs dressed in coats even though the temperature is over 20 degrees and poor creatures pushed around in custom made perambulators. End of Rant.
Hakoishi Pass and Sensuikyo 箱石峠と仙酔峡
Leaving south Aso, we set off for a viewing spot but by the time we reach Hakoishi we are in pretty dense fog and the viewing spot being barely more than a lay-by we travel on to Sensuikyo.
This too is enveloped in thick, low cloud. We park and enjoy lunch looking out at the swirling mist and driving rain. As we finish lunch and the cloud lifts somewhat we are surprised to discover we are just below a large car park with an information centre and toilets.
This used to be the ropeway station but the ropeway no longer exists. It is now the start point for hiking around Aso peaks, presumably volcanic activity permitting.
Ameushi Waterfall
Leaving Sensuikyo we head off without much expectation to Ameushi Waterfall. Really we are killing time as we have a hotel booked in Taketa for the final night of the November Bamboo Festival.
But first, the waterfall. We park and follow a steep concrete path past a derelict house and then steps. This is becoming a much more serious walk than anticipated. From the steps it becomes something of a scramble over boulders and smoothed rocks along a pleasing rocky torrent with towering, sheer gorge sides. On into what seems like a secret place of striking gothic beauty.
At the end the fall, a solid torrent dropping a few metres in a mist of spray. The fall is fine but the surroundings sublime. We encounter few other visitors; the handful we meet are usually accompanied by serious cameras. A little known gem of a place.
Taketa. Chikuraku (Bamboo Lantern Festival)
In Taketa, we join the throng wandering the dark streets lined with bamboo lanterns.
This is the 25th Chikuraku. We have been to this festival 3 times before and it is perhaps becoming increasingly popular. Candles in bamboo pots line the streets and in some places, steps and gateways, provide more elaborate displays. There are all the usual festival foods, pop up shops and arty things.
The author is a long term resident of Japan who has and continues to travel the country extensively. Avoiding highways where possible, the author has driven from Kagoshima in Kyushu to Wakanai in Hokkaido covering 20,000 plus kilometres and counting.