Sukawa Highland, Lake and Onsen 須川高原

Oct. 22nd. 2025
The parking adjacent to the main road at michi no eki Misato was not really an issue, but we were woken at 6.00 am with a bear sighting announcement. Quite how near this sighting occurred we are unsure. This announcement is repeated at intervals until we get up on a cold, damp morning.
Oyasu Gorge 小安峡
Our aim for the day is Kirikoma Sanso an onsen hotel at Sukawa Kogen (highland). A famous onsen area.
On our way, we stop at Oyasu Gorge. This is a small but impressive spectacle. The access is down numerous concrete steps then along a path deep in a narrow steep-sided gorge.
A rapid turquoise river rushes along the gorge floor, but from the rocky sides very hot steam and water hiss from every crevice. The path is enveloped in clouds of vapour for 50 or 60 metres.
https://youtu.be/kHQRDgZp4XQWe have been to Oyasu Gorge before but were eager to take a second look.
A short, but recommended, diversion on any trip in the area.
The autumn leaves we have come to see are only in patchy evidence. In some places still green, in others withered and brown. Too early or too late or perhaps the weather has been inconducive for colourful leaves this year. It has been unseasonably hot until the sudden cold and wet of the last few days.
Sukawa-ko / Sukawa Lake 須川湖
We stop at Sukawa-ko, a lake noted for colourful leaves and here we are not disappointed. The leaves are very pretty, if not the astonishing sight we had hoped for. There is a campsite here, but it is already closed for the winter.
Kirikoma Sanso 栗駒山荘
On then to the famous hotel, Kurikoma Sanso, where we take a short walk but the weather, though dry for the moment, is overcast and hazy. Not to mention the constant bear warnings that also dampen enthusiasm for hiking. We also want to take a bath so time is limited.
The hotel onsen is excellent. I tend to be a little wary of famous onsen but this one is in no way pretentious. Functional with solid wood decor.
Inside is a large and very hot bath, murky and sulphurous, the big window looking out at the view. The outside bath is again large, hot and murky.
The bath closes for visitors at 4.30pm and the whole hotel closes for the winter at the end of October, not to reopen until the end of April or the beginning of May, depends on the road condition. The road (R.342 and PR. 282) itself closes around that time.
*Sukawa onsen ‘Kurikoma Sanso’ ; 1,000 yen / adult
Michi no eki Genbikei
Down from the mountain, we stop for the night at michi no eki Genbikei. Here it is possible to park close to the facilities. These are rather old and limited but passable given the warm seat and washlet.
The author is a long term resident of Japan who has and continues to travel the country extensively. Avoiding highways where possible, the author has driven from Kagoshima in Kyushu to Wakanai in Hokkaido covering 20,000 plus kilometres and counting.





